Rock Sport: Tools, Training, and Techniques for Climbers by John Forrest Gregory

By John Forrest Gregory

Totally illustrated step by step directions.

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Rock Sport: Tools, Training, and Techniques for Climbers

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Hang from bone, which is durable stuff, not muscle and tendon those things wear out. What you do with the unweighted limb, or limbs, while making a move can spell success or crash. Work the unweighted limb like a counterweight, to aid your balance or increase the velocity of your movement. This takes a while to learn, but start by always trying to remember what effect each limb will have on your position. Don't let a dangling foot keep you from reaching the crux handhold. Think about getting it to do something for you even if you don't have a hold for it.

You can practice on the side of a staircase, or a flattopped retaining wall. Offwidth. Offwidth techniques are a mixture of crack climbing and face climbing, with a lot of stress and strain built in. One arm and leg get inside the crack and work around for holds or counterpressure to hold up the body. The limbs outside the crack can do most of the lifting, then the inside limbs repeat the process to gain stability higher up. It can be a real struggle. Offwidth. The idea is to use arm-shoulder and foot-leg combinations to press on opposite sides of the crack.

He will be more offensive, but your only hope is to persuade him to find another victim, preferably one out of earshot. " His response begins with a long, drawn-out "Well . " followed by the opening excuse. " After that it's too hot. By October, it's too cold. Sometimes this excuse is accompanied by a confession that he's not yet in top form. Of course, he owns a rowing machine, climbing simulator, and finger board, and he belongs to two health clubs, one Page 19 near the office, the other near home.

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